With radiant heat you MUST have a way to control humidity because the heat source is sitting DIRECTLY under the wood = quickly dries out = cups/warps quickly. Both solid and engineered both require this no matter if you have radiant heat or not. NEVER let the heating mat come into contact with metal pipes or metal hanger straps. NEVER let the heating mats come closer than 8 inches to an electrical cable or electrical box. NEVER let the heating mats overlap or bunch up 3. This may mean you have to add a whole home humidifier/dehumidifier if your heating/cooling system doesn't have one built in. NEVER place staples closer than 1/4 inch to the heating wire. As close to 45% humidity throughout the year. A well engineered/well produced/well manufactured engineered hardwood is the go-to floor over radiant heat but you STILL MUST MAINTAIN HUMIDITY in the home. It takes a skilled installer who knows EXACTLY what they are doing to get a solid hardwood to sit over radiant heat.which isn't cheap but it can be done.Įngineered hardwoods still change dimensions but not as much as solid. During the installation process one of the most important steps to take is to turn on the radiant heat system 1-2 weeks prior to the delivery of the wood. That being said, a properly cut (narrow plank quarter sawn oak for example) that is properly kiln dried (doesn't always happen properly with low cost solid hardwoods) solid hardwood can still work. Then, measure the distance from the wall to the center of each joist, and mark these points on the. First, make sure the floor is level and plumb. Summary: If you’re looking to install radiant heat under hardwood floors, there are a few things to keep in mind. It is supposed to be less dynamic (not as much expansion/contraction) and more stable than solid hardwood. Here’s a step-by-step guide on how to install radiant heat under hardwood floors. Engineered hardwood is supposed to be the "go-to" hardwood floor option when working with radiant heat.
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